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Screw Swine Flu, Head South For Killer Surf

Posted on Wed Apr 29 09:54:00 -0700 2009
While there are a few small swells heading into the US mainland it looks like mostly small surf will be on tap for both the East and West Coasts this week.

The West Coast is going to see a couple of weak SW swells (200-220) that will limp in over the next several days...one hitting here early in the week and another as we move into the weekend. Neither pulse is looking much better than chest high+ at the better spots.

The Pacific NW is going to do slightly better as a late season low-pressure moves through the North Pacific and sets up some sloppy but rideable WNW swell (290-310+) for exposed spots early next week (around the 4-5th of May).

Over on the East Coast there is going to be a few weak windswells as a front moves offshore in the NE over the next several days. Really though this storm is going to most of its swell production in the North Atlantic as it heads to Europe...spots over that way will see bigger WNW swell arriving around the end of the week and into the weekend...but nasty spring weather will be on tap for most areas as well.

Western South America, Central America, and Indo are the spots that I am seeing the most activity right now...and we have enough lead-time that if you have a few extra $$$ (and don’t mind some central America swine flu) that you might be able to pick off a few warm water waves over the next week or so.

In the South Pacific we have a strong system that is pulling together just off Antarctica...it isn’t in a great position for any of the SPAC islands (or Hawaii or Cali) but it is in a good spot for Central America and South America. The Current forecasts are showing nearly 40’+ seas near the core of this system which means that it will likely kick out a pretty healthy swell. I would look for the long-period energy from this storm to start arriving in Chile and Peru around the 6-7th...with some well overhead surf for the well exposed breaks (and likely some weather for the Chilean spots further south). Eventually this swell moves into Central America with some consistent overhead surf and sets going a couple of feet overhead at the better exposed breaks around the 7-8th.



Over in the Indian ocean the southern portion around Antarctica has been pretty active as well. There is a nice sized SW swell that is currently hitting Indonesia...most exposed areas are seeing consistent head high surf with sets going overhead at times. This swell will stick around for the next few days before fading out. Fortunately this swell will be followed by another similar sized SW’er that will arrive around the 5th and continue to kick out some overhead surf for several days after. Neither swell is huge but really do you need an excuse to go to Indo? I didn’t think so.



That is all I got for now...check back next week for more updates!

--Adam Wright
Professional Surf / Snow Forecaster

For more detailed weather check out my SURF blog here
Check out my SNOW blog here

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