Greg Long

Greg Long

Greg was born and raised in San Clemente, California where he grew up on the beach. His father, Steve, was the lifeguard supervisor for the San Clemente and San Onofre State Parks and consequently Greg was introduced to the water and surfing at a very young age. He began surfing competitively at the age of twelve and continued to surf at the top of his class during the years following. Along the way he met local Big Wave hero Jon Walla who took Greg under his wing and introduced him to the world of big wave surfing. At age 15, following the lead of his mentor, he soon found himself tackling some of the largest waves in the world.

Greg surfed his way to a dramatic underdog victory, clinching the 2001 Open Men’s Title at his home break Trestles. Renowned as one of the most prestigious amateur events in the world, his name is now enshrined among a list of past champions along the likes of Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, and CJ Hobgood. This amateur title opened a huge door of support for Greg. He was however, very reluctant to conform to the constraints and vigorous travel schedule being that of the WQS as so many past champions had. Instead Greg decided to blaze his own path. He set out on a quest to fulfill his new found passion of big wave surfing and began traveling the globe searching for the most challenging waves on the planet.

When asked what drives him on his quest to ride these large waves of consequence, Greg aptly states, “For me, big wave surfing is the most physically and mentally challenging facet of surfing. Immersing myself in the ocean during its wildest states, with the ability to coexist and then harness that energy, brings about a level of excitement and gratification that is unrivaled.” Greg is nominated for “Ride of the Year” at the 2012 Billabong Global Big Wave Awards. 

Sponsors: Billabong, Xcel Wetsuits, Von Zipper, Ocean Minded

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Bio courtesy of: Billabong

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